Hike of the Week: Bogachiel River

Bogachiel River
Solitude reigns in this rainforest

Hike of the Week
by Craig Romano
photo by Craig Romano
produced by Michael Fagin

March 4, 2005


Quick Facts
Location: Olympic National Park
Land Agency: National Park Service
Roundtrip: 12 miles
Cumulative Elevation gain: 300 feet
Access: From Forks, WA head 5 miles south on US 101 to Bogachiel State Park. Turn left (east) on Undie Road and follow for 5.5 miles to trailhead. Last 2 miles may be rough going but should be passable to most vehicles.
Notes: Dogs prohibited, backcountry permit required for overnight stays
Green Trails Map: Spruce Mt. no. 132

The Bogachiel is Washington’s forgotten rainforest. No roads up this river’s valley. No visitor’s center-interpretive trails-or developed campgrounds amidst its towering spruce and fir. Nothing fancy here at all-just a quiet backcountry trail through pure rainforest wilderness. And with this winter’s lack of rain-an early season hike up the Bogachiel River valley has never been more inviting. There’s little mud on the trail and very little difficulty to crossing Morganroth and Mosquito Creeks. Sure, you’ll still get your feet a little wet while hopping across these tributaries-but its no knee-deep ford.
Despite being a lightly used trail, the first six miles are in remarkable shape. Thanks in large part to the tireless work of the Washington Trails Association. And although only a handful of hikers trek up this valley each year-the elk that pass through are legion. From the trailhead immediately descend into the damp, dank river valley. Through mostly second-growth forest, the trail utilizes an old railroad bed. The World War II era loggers didn’t take all the big trees, for a few giant Sitka spruce still stand tall.
In two miles you’ll come to the National Park boundary. The trail now hugs the mighty Bogachiel, makes a rough climb over a steep bank-then plunges back down to the tumbling waterway. Ancient emerald giants dwarf you as you continue up the trail. The primeval forest is quiet except for the river’s soothing churn and the sweet serenade of the winter wren. Lichens drape overhead. Fern boughs burst open from the forest floor. Dew-dripping moss clings to everything. Only the glaucous sheen of alder bark breaks the deep green of the rainforest.
In 6.0 glorious miles you’ll come to a trail junction and a most inviting riverside camping area. This is a good spot to turn around-or if inclined, spend the night. During low water flows, venture out onto the gravel banks of the river. During downpours admire the torrents from the elevated embankment.
The trail continues-albeit with less maintenance for 18 more miles, deep into the Olympic backcountry. But any distance along this tranquil trail should satisfy your wanderlust.